Sometimes watch companies must wonder what the secret is to a developing a successful new model. Watches that are lovingly developed by the world’s most powerful luxury goods company and backed by history and large marketing budgets can sometimes fail to catch 
fire (TAG Heuer Autavia), yet others that are developed as side projects can turn into hugely popular models that enjoy success over more than a decade. The watch that has become known as the Heuer and TAG Heuer 1000 Professional series is a great example of the latter.
Having gone through the 1970s naming its watches after wonderfully evocative race tracks and cities, Heuer seemed to give up as the 1980s came around, simply using reference numbers in the place of model names. So the Heuer 1000 never really had a name for the first 5 years of its life and was instead known by its reference numbers- 844 and 980. It wasn’t until 1985 that the watch was given a proper name- The TAG Heuer 1000.
The 1000 was a watch that Heuer didn’t initially believe in enough to invest in tooling up for production itself, instead outsourcing the production to a French company in 1979. Heuer had produced diver watches before with the Autavia, but this was something different- a low cost diver model with the option of a quartz movement.
By the time the TAG Heuer 1000 Professional was finally retired in 1992/3, it had not only proved to be one of the most successful TAG Heuer watches, but had created a design template the survives today through the latest TAG Heuer Aquaracer.
The Early Days: Made in France- Ref. 844
Jarl Fr. Rehn-Erichsen’s website Classic Heuers has some great photos of the first generation Heuer 1000- the Heuer 844. This model was designed and manufactured by the French company G. Monnin and featured a Felsa movement, available in both automatic and quartz. These 844 Heuers are some of the few Heuer models that don’t carry the “made in Switzerland” script due to their French origins.
Already evident on the 844 are the design features that would last for more than a decade: The triangle marker at 12 o’clock, the circle hour-markers, the black diving bezel and the elevated guards around the crown.
I’ve struggled to find out much about the “G. Monnin” company that made these early watches. Was it Gaston Monnin, the French watchmaker from Charquemont in the French alps and near the Swiss border? Certainly I’d like to find out more about M. Monnin, who was also Mayor of Charquemont in the late 1960s and early 1970s- it sounds like there is a story there to be told.
Jarl’s website has more photos of his early 844 Heuer/ Monnin Diver here
The Heuer 980.xxx: Made in Switzerland
When the 844 series proved itself to be a success, Heuer began to switch production of the watch back to Switzerland and replaced the Fesla movements with ETA movements. However, the watch still didn’t really have a name- gone was the 844 serial number and in its place were new model numbers- typically 980.xxx depending on the variant.
At the same time the look of the watch was changed slightly- gone are the 24-hour red numerals and there is the first sign of the “Mercedes Hands” that Heuer and TAG Heuer would soon use on all of their diver watches.
The photo on the right shows a photo from the 1981 Heuer Catalog- I believe that the Orange-faced model is a transitional model still with some French parts (note the 844-style hands and the lack of “Swiss made” on the dial”.
Heuer also replaced “Professionel” with the English spelling “Professional”. TAG Heuer would later use the Professional label to generally indicate that a watch was quartz-powered, but initially “Professional” is found on both automatic and quartz watches. Why it was ever spelled “Professionel” rather than the correct French “Professionnel” is a mystery to me- maybe a French reader can clear that up.
My favourtite watch from this era is the 980.032 which had luminescent material covering the entire dial. These are fantastic watches that can be found for around USD500 today without too much trouble. This “glow watch” came with both an orange and yellow dial- its probably the orange that is the rarer variety.
There were a huge range of variation of the Heuer 980 series- it came in three sizes (Mens, Boys and Ladies), various case materials (PVD, Stainless Steel and Gold-plate) and various movements (quartz, Automatic and a quartz analogue-digital combination).
TAG Heuer 1000
By the time that TAG bought Heuer in 1984/ 5, the diver watch finally had a name- the 1000 series. The very last of the watches produced by Heuer have “1000″ on the dial as well as the “Heuer” only logo.
Initially not much changed with the TAG Heuer 1000 Professional- it was essentially the same watch as the Heuer 980 series, but with TAG Heuer on the dial. However, the late 1980s love of two-tone Gold and stainless steel soon infected the 1000 series, with all sorts of colour combination’s offered- some of the “highlights” of this dubious era are shown below:
Quite why you would want a gold divers watch is beyond me, but TAG Heuer wasn’t alone in producing the two-tone models, and Rolex and others including TAG Heuer still do today.
The 1500 Series
While the 1000 series disappeared from the TAG Heuer catalogue in 1992/ 3, in reality it survived as the 1500 series (presumably named because it was 50% better than the 1000). Some of the 1500 series models were almost identical to the earlier 1000 series (for example, the blue faced watch below, which has lost the 1000 series circles hour-markers), while others started to develop a distinct look, abandoning the black diving bezel in favour of silver, to bring the watch into line with the other TAG Heuer watches of the day- the 2000, 4000 and 6000 series.
M. Monnin could never have imagined that his low-cost 1979 design sold to Heuer would be so enduring that it would influence the watch worn by an American President when he collected his Nobel Peace Prize 30 years later.
Influence Today
President Obama’s love of his TAG Heuer 1500 is not the only on-going influence of that original Heuer 844.
On the right is the 2009/ 10 TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 Calibre 5, which has several clear links with the 1000 series- the black bezel is back, as are the circular hour markers. The watch still has the crown guard and has a very similar overall case design to the original Heuer 844.
Many people have a special love for the TAG Heuer 1000 as it was an affordable way of getting into the world of quality Swiss watches- for many, it was their first “proper” watch and offers great value for money.
And today its still affordable, with prices ranging from $300-700 for a second-hand Heuer/ TAG Heuer 1000 Professional. These are pretty tough watches that generally can take a fair beating and still look good- its really only the bezel condition that gives away what sort of life a watch has led. Sadly, these are also very difficult to replace with correct TAG Heuer parts, although there are several aftermarket options available.
The TAG Heuer 1000 still offers a lot of watch for your money and make a great choice as a Heuer/ TAG Heuer to wear as a daily wearer where you won’t be continually worried about scratches or scrapes. Just steer clear of the two-tone gold!
Postscript
This article was originally posted in December 2009. In March 2010 I had the chance to ask Jack Heuer some questions about the Heuer/ TAG Heuer diver watches, which you can read here. You’ll note that Jack says that the first watches were not out-sourced and that it was a design- both case and dial- by Heuer.
Photos:
1) Farfo Vintage Watches
2) Classic Heuers: http://classicheuers.blogspot.com/2009/01/heuer-844-french-made-diver.html
3, 5 and 6) Heuer catalog: OnTheDash
7) Bernard Watch
Cheers Arno
True to your word, excellent article and you’ve cheered me up no end, thanks a lot for the write-up and a great source of information.
Have a great festive period, all the best, James.
Hi David – Superb article that echoes my feelings perfectly towards this model. Only yesterday I photographed my collection of Heuer 1000 Divers (7 in Total and just posted on the OTD forum) and bought my first TAG Heuer 1000 off ebay for the exact reasons you put forward in your article – an affordable, classic diver thats both rugged and very functional plus loads of fun in what can become the very serious world of Heuer.
Best regards Paul
Thanks James- took me a while to get there, but I hadn’t forgotten. Hope you enjoy the break as well- I’ll be putting up one of those cheesy “End of Year” wrap-ups that newspapers are so fond of in the next week…and then be back in the new year.
David
Thanks Paul- wow, you have a great collection of these- I’ve taken your photo from the OTD post to show your watches.
Its always the watch that I put on whenever there is a risk of it getting knocked around- and it still looks great.
eBay does seem to be a good place to find these- less risk of fakes of the early models (not worth their time!) and because they’re priced so reasonably, you can afford to take a bit more of a risk with sellers.
Cheers
David
“… it was their first “proper” watch and offers great value for money. …”
Exactly the same with me. I bought the 1500 with the blue dial 10 years ago because for the first time in my life I wanted something better than a Seiko.
Now I am equipped with a Porsche Design Orfina, a Breitling Blackbird and finally a Heuer Daytona. So back with Heuer again.
Unfortunately the 1500 is gone. Like most of the first loves in live …
Cheers
Olek
Great post! I love these fullsize Heuer diver watches. One of my faorite Heuer is my 980.007 the orange fullsize diver.
Jarl
Olek, I still have my first proper watch- a quartz TAG Heuer 4000. I don’t wear it that much, but I couldn’t sell it. Good to see you back with the Heuers and the Daytona.
Thanks Jarl- the Orange does seem to be a lot harder to find that the yellow- I don’t think there was ever an orange TAG version, so maybe that’s why. Nice watch
David
Hi David,
I have uploaded a picture of the watches – actually the Daytona is the one I like most right now:
I am constantly looking for a Heuer Bundeswehr too. That will be my next one probably.
Hi David – came across this old post on the OTD forum with claims that the original French made diver with 12 to 24 was a military issue. Also further on is a picture of one with strange dial marking T Swiss Made T. I have never seen that before. May be of interest. regards Paul
http://www.chronocentric.com/forums/heuer/index.cgi?noframes;page=41;read=24847
Hi Paul- I’m not sure on that one. Yes, I’ve heard that there is a military connection with the original one, but this watch here:
doesn’t look right to me. I’ve never seen any TAG Heuer with the white outlines surrounding the circular lume markers- and the red 24 hour numerals are in a very different position to the original 844 Monnin Heuer.
Interested in your view, but I tend to think its a re-dial.
David
I have a Professional 1000 & it hasn’t lost a second of time since I bought it sometime in the mid-late 80′s (980 013N). However the battery is depleted & I can’t find anyone that will fix it. Any suggestions? TAG service in NJ sent it back without service.
Hi Mark,
Your best bet will be a local watch maker. These ETA movements are fairly generic and so you have two options- Either you may be lucky and t-it can be repaired or worst case you can buy a new ETA movement and swap it in.
People will often tell you that you can’t repair quartz movements, but I’ve had success…where there is a will there is a way!
Cheers
Hi David,
very nice and informative article! Congrats!
Hereafter a link to a short presentation for Heuer ref. 980.026 including pictures for my one.
http://www.ceasuripentruromania.ro/ceasuri.php?id_article=106&language=english
All the best!
Hi Montana,
Nice article that you have written- I like the 1000 on the “Bond” NATO strap. The TAG Heuer 1000 really is one of the great TAG models of the last 35 years.
David
David – Great article! By chance would know of a TAG qualified Jeweler that specializes in restoration of older TAG’s? I have a 980.029B that I am quite attached, I would love to have it professionally refurbished. The watch is in very good condition but the bracelet shows signs of wear. We are located in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, but I would not mind shipping it out if the Jeweler has the qualifications. Thanks again for the enjoyable reading.
Thanks Greg. Not sure about TAG-qualified, but try Jack at IWW- http://www.industrialwatchworks.com/
I’ve not had Jack re-finish any watches for me, but plenty have and seem very happy with the work.
Let us know how it goes and good luck.
David
Hi David, do know which felsa movement was used by G. Monnin in the french made watches, if so do you know of any equivalent movements I can get parts from? Thanks much, Steve.
Hi Steve,
844 automatic–cal. FE 4611A
844 Quartz ” FE unknown
1611 Chrono cal. Valjoux 7765
1529 ” ”
1614 ” ”
From here: http://www.chronocentric.com/forums/heuer/index.cgi?noframes;read=1458
Not sure on equivalent movements- recommend either posting a question at OnTheDash or could also try contacting Jarl http://classicheuers.blogspot.com/
Good luck
David
Thanks so much, got on I need to fix!
Hi I have finally found the watch that was stolen on here because I didnt have a clear photo of it anywhere. the TAG hue all gold with a black face, how much do you think that is today?
Hi- think that eBay will be your best bet to find one of the Gold divers. Price? Depending on condition, I’d say $400-700
Cheers
Found your article while researching my next watch. I Have a 20+ year old Tag 1000 Professional 980 020B. Last year I had to have a new movement put in – sent it to a shop in California I found on the Internet – perfect. Now if I can find a replacement band I might just pass on the ‘upgrade’ from this my first Swiss watch. Any sources for bands of alternating Gold / Steel links?
Joseph, again I would try eBay for the bracelet- I know the one that you’re looking for, and I have seen a couple over the last few months being sold.
Your other option is to ask TAG Heuer direct, although probability isn’t that high.
David
David – Jack @ IWW was responsive, helpful, very honest, but relayed that bracelet restoration of my 980.029B is not possible. I have his contact info in my address books, worth keeping him on file! I will keep looking, I have several inquiries out for replacement. On another note, by chance would you know of a source that may have extra bracelet links for a Ladies SS 1000? The case number is 980.018N, I have been surfing Ebay 9for both items) but nothing yet. Truly enjoy your pages! Thanks again.
What a great article. The 1000 (980.013B), identical to the first picture, was my first Tag and was a daily wearer (and diver) during 13 years of solid performance, but then sold it because I wanted a bigger dial. In hindsight, big mistake. After a few years of having parted with it, I purchased one again (980.013B). I have to say it is one of my favorites; even my Aquaracer Calibre 5, same as picture at the end of the write-up, which I enjoy thoroughly doesn’t evoke the same sentiment. Perhaps there is a TAD of nostalgia involved…
Thanks Rod- yes, there is a lot of nostalgia with the TAG Heuer 1000, but even without that its a great looking watch at- for the moment- reasonable prices.
Cheers
Loved the site and the info on my beloved 1000 professional…I have had it since 1985 NEVER had it repaired, refurbished, regasketted, anything it runs perfectly, better than a new Tag I bought 5 years ago, 3x repaired!
Last year the BLUE bezel came off my blue faced Tag 1000 ….I sent it to TAG in NJ and alas, no surprise, no more parts available …WHERE do I go to find a bezel for my old Tag ! I want to get it restored and repaired!!! HELP!
Thank you!
Jeffrey
Along the same lines of Jeffrey’s post, what are the details of the original movement and where could I get one (or a direct replacement)? In case I ever need to replace the original…I have the 980.013B.
There were a couple of versions of the 980.013- There was a 980.013, a 980.013N and a 980.013B. I think that the different letter indicates a different movement- the movement in the “N” was an ETA 955.112, whereas earlier versions of 1000 Diver had ESA movements.
The “B” is from around 1990, but I’m not 100% sure what movement that had, but it may be the 955.114, which is the same movement as the .112 but assembled in Asia (from Swiss parts) with lower accuracy requirements. Best to take off your caseback and take a look- please let me know which one it is, as it would be helpful for others I’m sure.
Both movements are available here: http://www.smithsupplyhouse.com/eta.html
Bezel inserts are harder Jeffrey. You could send the watch back to TH in Switzerland, where I’m sure they carry more parts than in the US. Note that they won’t just send you a bezel- you have to send them t he watch. Perhaps trying to ask TH US to try and order the part from Switzerland.
If you have no luck there, its really eBay or buying a replica insert (also on eBay)
Cheers
David
David,
I took the caseback off: 955.114 from 1.91. It is in mint condition: no sign of corrosion or even dullness. If it did not have the date stamped I would have no means to argue the movement is 7 months shy of 2 decades…Overall, the watch is ultra clean. At the moment I’m sourcing the bracelet pins to replace all those which are removable (I took 1 out to adjust the buckle position and just broke at the u-bend once I extracted it.
I will send it in for a full service shortly, and will get a new bracelet. Any ideas where I can buy an original one?
Thanks for the update Rod and helpful to know.
These Jubilee bracelets can be hard to find in good condition…they tend to stretch quite a lot over the years. I have seen a few on eBay, so I think that is your best bet.
Cheers
David
David,
Any other bracelets you could recommend?
Re: Who was G. Monnin… I’ve been digging around, and this company look like it may have been the ‘Monnin’ in question:
http://www.monnin.ch/
I have emailed them for confirmation.
Well, I’ve not heard back from them (monnin.ch), and the company is based in Switzerland, not France. Maybe I was barking up the wrong tree?
Not sure, although I like the image of a dog barking up the wrong tree! many of these French watchmakers were based right on the Swiss border, so its certainly possible that this is the right company.
Keep us up to date with what you find!
What a great article. Have been looking for info. on this model for ages. Obviously I haven’t been looking hard enough.
Just thought I’d share with you My Heuer 1000 series which I purchased about 22 years ago (not sure on the price) and was priced up incorrectly so I got it for a song. I Had been gazing through the window of the Jewellers for weeks before I saw it and thought it was perfect in shape, size and design (although a little underpriced:).
Anyway it is all stainless with stainless bezel and yellow face and hadn’t seen another like it until I saw the picture above from Paul Gavin (great collection) mine is identical to the one far left.
Unfortunately the movement was changed after I left the crown unscrewed and went swimming, the face is slightly mottled apart from that, in good condition.
Here are the numbers. On the back 989.113L in the caseback Brevet 503305
MRP SA Switzerland. Heuer-Leonidas SA 1272.018 7100 W20.
On the movement is Heuer 4.85.
Wonder if you can make head or tail of this, not sure what the original movement was. Great to get it back after a service
Regards
Stuart
My Heuer 1000 Professional (980.013 L), works fine until I put it on my wrist and it then stops ticking or even starts ticking backwards. Had it serviced and looked at several times, each time the same problem. Have recently been told it will cost about £6-700 to repair, but I guess it is worth it.
Thanks Stuart- that’s what I love about these watches: they’re really tough and give great service. I wear my 1000m Diver the most out of any of my watches and always on holiday, etc-never lets me down.
Take a look at this link here:
http://classicheuers.blogspot.com/2010/03/tag-heuer-989113n.html
Same as your watch, but a later TAG Heuer model. Yours, being a Heuer, should be an ESA movement- can you see the ESA logo anywhere?
David
Hi DC
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I can’t see an ESA logo anywhere just the Heuer 4.85 (worryingly i could just make out 1 jewel unadjusted. assy. Hong Kong on the battery tag) but the movement was changed after I got water in it:( by a TAG Agent.
The watch in the link is as you said the same albeit with TAG Heuer on the face, the jubilee strap is the same as mine with the TAG Heuer logo
Stuart