History of Heuer III: 1950s

By the start of the 1950s, the post-war boom in sales of chronographs to war veterans was beginning to tail off, leaving Heuer with additional manufacturing capacity. The decision was made to branch out into the sale of non-chronograph watches to make use of this otherwise excess capacity. Since the first wristwatches appeared in the teens, the majority of Heuer’s wristwatch production had been chronographs but with that niche shrinking, management decided to explore straight time-keeping watches. The majority of the business continued nonetheless to be in stopwatches and timers.


Notable for Heuer was that these time-only watches used an automatic movement, rather than the manual movements of the chronographs. Although automatic wristwatches had been in circulation since John Harwood developed the first in the UK in 1923, Heuer’s focus on chronographs meant their offerings until now had been manually wound. These early automatics used a moving weight to wind the mainspring, with “bumper” springs each side to prevent full rotation and are therefore commonly called bumper movements.

Heuer’s long-time movement supplier Valjoux was also primarily concerned with the manufacture of chronograph movements, so Heuer turned to Adolph Schild SA (commonly A. Schild) instead for these. By modern standards, these watches are rather small, commonly being no more than 30mm wide but were indeed considered men’s watches.


Meanwhile, over at another movement manufacture, Büren, development was underway on a feature that would have a significant impact on Heuer over a decade later. Their first micro-rotor movement was launched in 1957 and went on to feature in watches from Hamilton, Dugena and Bulova and others. Those three names will crop up again later in the Heuer story and the link through Büren is of note.

1950s Models

Heuer had its 90th anniversary in 1950 and used this occasion to run advertising showing what it calls its “mid-century” models:


These were triple calendar models without any chronograph function, in steel or 14 or 18 K gold. These models continued throughout most of the decade, with a variety of date hands, sometimes strikingly shaped:



This demonstrates that Heuer, already familiar with chronographs, was happy to offer watches with various complications rather than just a straightforward line of time-only watches. Another such watch was the Twin-Time of 1955, able to show a second time zone and presaging a similar watch that would form part of the re-issue Carrera range in the 2000s.


Triple calendars were mentioned earlier as a staple of Heuer production in the 40s and 50s, but they were further complicated in this decade to produce some models with the addition of a moonphase indicator.


There were also moonphase watches without chronographs in the range.

Heuer in North America

Just as today, one of the major markets for Heuer in the post-war years was the United States. Heuer had sold watches and timers in the US for a number of years, but always through a local partner.


In 1959 the Heuer family sold the family home “Bel Air” in Bienne and used the funds to start their own North American distribution business. On 16 March 1959 Hubert and his nephew Jack Heuer opened the branch, named Heuer Time Corporation, in New York as shown in these period photographs.


Jack was selected to run the US branch and used the time well to study marketing in the US as well as just the direct mechanics of distribution.


In addition to selling watches under the Heuer brand, Heuer also co-branded their watches with established brands, such as Baylor and Abercrombie & Fitch. Baylor was an arm of the US jewellery retailer Zales and many of the automatic Heuers were sold through this channel.



Abercrombie & Fitch’s relationship with Heuer had continued and grown since the suggestion of the Solunar tide watch and produced some striking watches during the 1950s. One such was a re-branding of Heuer’s 1948 Autograph, with its additional pusher on the left for manually advancing a pointer one minute at a time.


Some watches carried joint branding, whilst others were marked Abercrombie & Fitch only.


 The original Solunar was elaborated on to include chronograph functions and this watch was sold as the Seafarer:


Heuer produced their own-branded version of the watch as the Mareographe:


Stopwatches and Timers

Stopwatch and timer production continued much as before, and rather than always being involved in the glamour world of motorsports, many were put to much more prosaic use.



This stopwatch, as evidenced by the caseback, was issued to the UK General Post Office in 1953 and would therefore have been involved in timing postal service operations rather than a race car. Heuer produced stopwatches for industry and laboratory work with the decimal scale, as well as for specific sporting events across an enormous range of timers. Catalogues of the time often feature many more pages covering timers than wristwatches.

The dash timer line continued to progress too, firstly with the launch in the early 50s of the Auto-Rallye.


No model name features on the dial of the early versions and aesthetically it is a match for the contemporary Autavia and Hervue models. Later models would show the model name and, paralleling the wristwatches somewhat, an A.Schild 1564 movement replaced the Valjoux 62 of the initial model.


At the same time as this 1958 revision, the Hervue was amended to become the Master Time with aesthetics to match the Auto Rallye.


The Monte Carlo was introduced to replace the Autavia:


And these latter two paired together on a backplate make one of the Heuer icons, the Rallye Master.


The final introduction of 1958 was the Super Autavia, a dashboard chronograph showing both real time as well as elapsed time, just as Heuer’s wrist chronographs would.


Looking back at the 1950s

So how had Heuer’s experiment with non-chronographs gone? It had certainly used up some excess capacity but it was a market with a lot of competition and Heuer struggled in it. Jack Heuer had finished his studies by 1958 and was invited to join the company, and would later recall that from their comfortable and uncrowded niche of chronographs, they were suddenly in a market with 600 other Swiss watch manufacturers.

After some analysis of strategy and production, Heuer decided to largely withdraw from the time-only market and focus once again on chronographs. Many of the existing watches were remaindered to Baylor and sold relatively cheaply through that channel.

So Heuer would go into its centenary as a maker of stopwatches, timers and chronographs. But that’s a story for next time.






[1] [3] [6] [8] [9] [10] [15] [16] TAG Heuer Archives

[2] [4] [5] [11] [12] [17] [18] Courtesy of Jarl Rehn-Erichsen and http://www.classicheuers.blogspot.com/

[7] [13] [14] 19] [20] [21] [22] [23] [24] Courtesy Jeff Stein and www.onthedash.com



  • wynonie

    Great stuff – really fascinating. Thanks again Mark and David. Everything is now in place for us to see the golden age of Heuer in the context of its amazing history. Can't wait for the next piece….

  • Tremendous piece of informative history of the less known period of Heuer to most of us raised on a diet of Monaco's etc. I have a modest stopwatch collection and occasionally trade in watches etc and only discovered this site today while researching a possible purchase and like wyonie cannot wait till the next instalment, top stuff!

  • Mark

    Glad you like it guys. Neil, I'm trying to make it about more than just the wristwatches, because I think the stopwatch and timer side often gets overshadowed despite being the much larger side of Heuer's business back then. So happy if it's getting at least some balance in for stopwatch collectors like yourself 🙂

    And I'm afraid there will be a wait for the next one, as I've yet to even make a start on the 60s. I've taken a break from the history articles to write another that's hopefully of interest too and David of course wants to get some of his articles on his own site! So I'll keep you waiting a bit for the next history but it should be worth it – so much to cover from here on in.

  • DC

    I think we'll need to take a deep breath before even thinking about the 60s and 70s…The challenge is what to leave out.

    What I find interesting is how "limited" our views are on what it means to collector "Vintage Heuer". To 99% of people (including me), it means that they have an Autavia/ Monaco/ Carrera/ Other from the 1970s, and maybe a Camaro or Carrera from the mid-late 1960s.

    I love some of the watches that Mark has shown us from the 40s and 50s…but have never seen one for sale. These don't get the airtime that they deserve.

    So that's the question: Who will be the first to post a photo of their Twin Time?


  • Mick Sunter

    Great read, thanks

  • Nobut

    Does anyone know what kind of Heuer is the one of picture 1? What a beautiful watch. Anyone any clue about year, type, possible ways to buy such an terrific watch…

  • Not sure Nobut- sorry!

    I do know that you rarely see these 1950s models for sale…keep an eye on eBay.

  • Sgt_Bilko

    I have a Heuer triple date from Baylor, rather like the one shown in the article, though mine is in somewhat better condition. It’s the only Heuer I have and feel these are hugely undervalued. A Rolex triple date from the same period with the same Valjoux movement fetches crazy money.

  • L R G

    Heuer Baylor automatic

  • Khalishan Aan

    For the first watch what is it called pls reply as soon as possible

    • It doesn’t have a name unfortunately…and I’ve never seen one for sale, which is a shame because it’s a beauty!

      • Khalishan Aan