One of my favourite stories on Calibre 11 was the article from 2011 that finally revealed the truth behind a TAG Heuer that never was: The TAG Heuer Edge. The Edge was developed in the late 1990s as a new, entry-level model. Despite several thousand cases having been made, the acquisition of TAG Heuer by LVMH spelt the end for the Edge, with the new management team instead deciding to take the TAG Heuer brand up-market. The watches were scrapped and not one was ever sold.
We were fortunate enough to confirm the details of the TAG Heuer Edge with the Stephane Linder (who today of course is the CEO of TAG Heuer) back in 2011, Stephane being one of only a few current TAG Heuer employees who worked on the development of the Edge series.
You’ll often see watches in the Edge case sold as “TAG Heuer Prototypes” where watchmakers add a dial and hand-set from an Aquaracer/ 2000 series and claim that the watch is a genuine TAG Heuer Edge- they almost never are. You see, the problem is that while the cases are reasonably common, most of the dials were destroyed.
But now for the first time, we can show you not only four of the original dials for the Edge 3-hand watch, but also photos of a genuine TAG Heuer Edge Chronograph featuring a bracelet that was developed just for the new model.
Edge Watch Dials
Before we get to the Edge Chronograph, here are four prototype dials for the Edge 3-hand watch. Like most TAG Heuer models of the 1990s, the dials do not have the model name on the dial, but do carry the inscription “professional“.
The two dials above have the reference number from the dial manufacturer on the back
In keeping with the square-edge design of the watch, the hour markers on the dial have squared-off corners, while the dials feature the coloured TAG Heuer logo, which at the time signified a quartz movement.
Edge Chronograph Bracelet
We can also show you that the Edge range included three sizes- below are the clasps for the these models- Full size (below left), Mid-Size (below centre) and Women’s (below right).
Caseback and Movement
TAG Heuer Edge Chronograph Prototype
While the design itself certainly would look out of place in today’s TAG Heuer range, the watch is nicely executed, with a consistent squared-off theme across key parts.
Probably the least-successful element are the hour-markers, which have a “stuck-on” feel to them. The gap between the 10 and 2 o’clock hour marker and the sub-dial is quite tight and doesn’t quite look right.
The stainless steel case features a sand-blasted finish, which in the photo above shows off well the shape of the case that sits beneath that unusual square bezel. It’s a complex design, and while I doubt the model would have proven to be a classic, it does give an insight into the design direction at the time.
Alternative Chronograph Dials
So advanced was TAG Heuer’s development of the Edge Chronograph, that a second dial designed was also commissioned- either as an alternative concept, or potentially an early-look at a second-generation Edge. The design is more up-market than the original one, with polished applied numerals at 12, 4 and 8 o’clock on the men’s model (above right).
This design was adopted on the second-generation Kirium Chronograph from 2001 onwards.
My sincere thanks to Nico from Germany for sharing these photos of his amazing TAG Heuer Edge collection.